Category: Food

Are you there?

Yes. I am.

It has been more than a year since I wrote a blog post (or rather posted one). I have written quite a bit since last year but hardly anything has made it to this blog. This has been my longest break since I started the blog and it is strange considering there has been so much to write about.

Last year and the part of this year has brought about a number of changes- turning 30, adjusting to a married life, moving to U.S., learning how to drive, and getting used to change in working styles. It has also been about the usual stuff- travelling and eating interesting things, reading new stuff, having conversations on politics and sports, and trying out new things in kitchen.

But it seems that day by day there is less to talk, and a even lesser number of people to talk with. I own a few more devices now than I did a year back, although I use them less than what I used to do. Is it the age catching up? Or is it just the lack of time? Or just a lack of motivation to pick up things of my interest and record them.

Apart from the fact that my social life in U.S. has been a bit on the decline, the rest of the parameters have stayed the same. I have enjoyed the lakes, the forests, the occasional runs, the beautiful drives, and the snow. Yes the snow. New York has reminded me of Mumbai and Chicago of what Mumbai can never be. Disney brought out unlimited happiness in me, Niagara stunned me with its visuals, and Grand Canyon was a bit of a let down. Food in America has swung between greasy and over-healthy and “good” Indian restaurants have been hard to find. American History has intrigued me, from the museums in DC to Netflix documentaries to books on Civil War. Winter has charmed and shivered me in equal proportions, Fall was something I totally missed, and Summer seems like something that happened a long time ago. Right now I am just hoping that this winter slowly melts into summer again. And yes that is currently the only thing I wish for,

And I have missed a lot of action back home, especially the experience of voting in the Lok Sabha elections last year and just talking about it a lot. I have developed appreciation for Ravish Kumar’s reporting on NDTV India and have stopped watching the noisy debates of Arnab totally.

Between all this what has kept me engaged has been my attempts to perfect my Indian cooking. As my wife says there is a difference between being someone who likes to cook occasionally vs. someone who has to cook daily. It is a big challenge to cook daily. It is more difficult to keep your Daal interesting on a day-to-day basis than rolling the perfect Pizza (which I have tried too). As I learn the art of tinkering with the daily recipes, without altering their simple nature, I do indulge a bit of special cooking from time to time.

Here is a recipe for one dish which reminds me of some awesome drinking / talking sessions at Raj Palace, and something which I prepare for a respite from the usual routine food.

Recipe: Egg Biryani

Ingredients:
* Hardboiled eggs
* Rice (Cooked, but shouldn’t be overcooked)
* Whole Garam Masala (Cloves, Cardamon, Cinnamon, Bay Leaves etc.)
* Onions and tomatoes
* Regular masalas from Kitchen

Put some oil in pan. Add few drops of ghee in it. Put thinly sliced onion in it. Fry till they are nice and brown. Bring them to the sides and keep it in pan, don’t mix with oil.

Add Jeera and whole garam masala in oil ghee in pan. I added cloves, cardamon, bayleaf and cinnamon. You can consider adding few others of your choice.

Then add green chillies, ginger-garlic paste, and some ginger julienne. Add tomato paste and a bit of water. Pull in a few fried onions from the side and mix in it. Not all. We want the onions to be separate and not mash in like a paste.

Once masala is ready add eggs. Then add rice and mix it gently. Add a bit of coriander.

Serve with Papad and Raita.

Best enjoyed with Old Monk and Thums Up.

Note: Just to be clear, my wife does most of the cooking but I do end up doing a bit too 🙂

February 26, 2015
The Big Fat Lentil Wedding

It was a morning of a date which is quite unclear in my memory. I woke up to the rising sound of traffic and the fluttering of pigeons eternally stuck in the window railings. I picked up my toothbrush, squeezed the last remains of the toothpaste, and tucked the brush into my mouth. I needed some company before sitting on the toilet seat, so I walked towards the door and pushed it open. Lying there was my roll of newspapers, with colorful bunch of pamphlets. But along with it was an envelope addressed for me.

It was strange as no courier guy or postman would have delivered it so early in the morning. It didn’t carry any seals or stamps, and who had sent it. Curious to know, I first tore it from the corner, and then ripped through the edge with a single slide of the finger.

Before I could open it, I could smell something. There was a pungency of garlic and mustardy feel of turmeric in the envelope. I was now almost sure of the contents of the envelope, this was a highly familiar smell.

I could not help but smile. Finally my beautiful friend from Hyderabad was about to marry one of my closest friend from Mumbai. Yes, the Sambhar from Chutneys was finally set to marry the Dal from Bhagat Tarachand.

The Bride- Sambhar from Chutneys

I had known her (the Sambhar from Chutneys) since my trips to Hyderabad became frequent after 2010. I visited Chutneys on almost all my visits, skipped my rendezvous with 5-6 chutneys on offer, and always spent the most time with her. This sambhar had a smooth texture like none I had ever tasted. There were no obstructions of drumsticks or pumpkin pieces so pervasive in sambhars all across India. The flavor was rich with spices and a more than generous helpings of black pepper gave it the perfect zing. But what set it apart was its use of Garlic, something which I haven’t frequently encountered in sambhars across the country. Over the years the sambhar from Andhra had been my favorite (Andhra>Tamil>Kerala>Karnataka style sambhars, especially don’t like Manglorean/Udupi variety popular across many Mumbai eateries, which has a dash of sweetness from jaggery/sugar), but this one climbed to be top of my list.

The Groom- Dal from Bhagat Tarachand

I first met him (the Dal from Bhagat Tarachand) on of my countless trips across Mumbai in search of good food. I found him hiding in one of those countless Bhagat Tarachands (so many of them at Zaveri Bazaar), where my encounter with him offered peace in between the maddening crowds of Zaveri. I mostly met him with his best friends, Papad Churi and a Ghee laden Chapati, at either his Zaveri Bazar home, or his more suave R City adobe- Shvatra. Like the sambhar from Chutneys, the brilliant use of Garlic was its forte, but what set it apart was the use of Ghee-fried onions, similar to ones used frequently with Biriyanis (possibly a connect with the Hyderabadi Sambhar). We hit an instant friendship and both of us being in the same city (and him staying close by in Ghatkopar) meant countless encounters.

So when both of them agreed to come together, no one could have been happier, as I was the one who connected both of them. I can’t even imagine how awesome their kids would be. Surely healthy with so much of protein running in their veins.

—-

I reached the wedding venue few hours prior to the wedding. As expected the environment was somber and lacking energy. Both of them have had a tendency of moving under the radar, when some of their other contemporaries have been involved in maximum showoff with minimal flavors. Gracing the occasion were the family members, friends from the spices community- with peppers dominating the group. The pandit was busy preparing the holy fire and doing other preparations.

The pandit seemed adept at handling both the mantras and kitchen equipment, as he placed a huge vessel over the fire. He started pouring in lots of ghee, and then crackled a bit of jeera (cumin seeds) in the vessel. As the crackling voice soaked the environment, the bride and groom entered the proceedings. Both of them wet, soaked in water and fresh and ready for the wedding.

The sambhar had a garland of curry leaves around it, and the dal looked composed with a pot of ghee in his hands. The background was infused with sounds of ceremony and usual wedding banter, and smells of spices and fresh coriander. As both the bride and groom settled down in the mandapam, the pandit started the fiery rounds mantras. With each swaha, he tossed a clove of garlic in the ghee-jeera mix. Pandit then took out a shining silver spice box, and started adding them one by one in the mix. As the ceremony proceeded, the attendees were handed ghee-fried onions for sprinkling at the bride and groom during the seven rounds across the fire. These onions were the ones which had set apart this dal from the rest for so many years, and it was a great way of welcoming the bride in this family.

After the rounds around the holy fire, there were the usual ceremonies of sindoor (made of red chilly powder) and a mangalsutra (made of raw mustard seeds).

The wedding ceremony ended with a feast with no parallels, with a mix of cuisines from west and south dominating the platters. I was as always indulged in the glory of the dishes and sat along with the rest cleaning my banana leaf and waiting for the servings. A little girl was going around with the gulaabjal sprinkler, used so often during weddings to welcome guests. The girl came towards me, gave me a smile and then sprinkled a bit on me. It was hot. I wiped the drop of my lips and tasted it. It was the sambhar, or was it the daal? It was sweet!

And I woke up to my wife trying to wake me up, sprinkling drops from her hot steamy-sugary cup of tea on my face. The dream was broken, and I had a smile on my face thinking about it.

There was a rising sound of traffic and the fluttering of pigeons eternally stuck in the window railings. I picked up my toothbrush, squeezed the last remains of the toothpaste, and tucked the brush into my mouth. I needed some company before sitting on the toilet seat, so I walked towards the door and pushed it open. Lying there was my roll of newspapers, with colorful bunch of pamphlets.

But along with it was an envelope addressed for me. From Hyderabad…

I wrote this sometime back in October, and posting it now. There are striking similarities to two of my friends who got married just a few days back! Wishing them and the pulses loads of luck

January 22, 2014
Tapas Tales from Seville

For an outsider flipping guidebooks (swiping in our case) and capturing countless images, the Andalucían city of Seville is a perfect destination. It offers the visitor traditional grammar of conflicts, chronicles of rise and fall, and images of an eventful past. A city which balances romanticism with rationalization, it has the frantic pace of a Flamenco performance, and the soothing influence of a symphony orchestra. But above all it has some of Spain’s most innovative tapas, served with a distinctive Sevillan flair.

Seville offers its visitors a delightful array of Iberian ham and sausages, seafood, and vegetables, with preparations aligned to most aspects of Mediterranean cuisine. Some bars experiment with fusion , while others stick to the basics of home-cooking. And with almost 3000 tapas bars, finding the right place to eat at Seville might end up being an experiment in chaos. Although one can be safely assured, that the outcome will not be disappointing.

Over the duration of our stay, our experiments were guided by conversations, guidebooks, blogs, the Queen of Tapas herself (more on her later), and my own distinct sense of intuition.

Chance encounter with Bodega Santa Cruz

While walking down the narrow lanes circling the cathedral, we came across Bodega Santa Cruz. A small crowded place with little space for seating was hardly welcoming, but we entered looking for a quick drink. The bar looked in need for some repair, and definitely a thorough cleanup. I ordered 3 cañas (small servings of beer, mostly Estrella Damm or Mahou) along with a plate of Jamón and Patatas Alioli. I had my struggles with Jamón throughout the trip and this place was no different. But the Patatas Alioli was perfect and a welcome break from its fried cousin Patatas Bravas. A simple recipe of boiled potatoes, garlic mayonnaise, and few simple herbs did its trick. A simple place with simple food, and complex conversations, Bodega Santa Cruz is something one shouldn’t miss at Seville.

Jamon with Patatas Alioli

Lonely Planet suckers visit Vineria San Telmo

Vineria San Telmo shows up as one of the top places on Lonely Planet. Given we were so engrossed in swiping pages, we finally thought of giving Lonely Planet’s food recommendations a chance.

The first dish was their famous skyscraper tapas- Tomatoes, Aubergine, Goat Cheese, and Smoked Salmon. The seasoning was minimal and the Goat cheese slightly tangy. The salmon was fresh, tomatoes juicy and the aubergines mildly cooked. I loved this preparation. In fact I realized during my trip that Aubergines featured heavily in cooking across Spain. They would have possibly arrived here in the age of the Moors, as it was introduced by Arabs to most of the world.

Famous skyscraper tapa at Vineria San Telmo- Tomatoes, Aubergine, Goat Cheese and Smoked Salmon

Another dish which we ordered at Vineria was this tapas of fried mushrooms with caramelized onions. This reminded me of the Mushrooms Amrita prepares with caramelized onions, although in a different format. These were mildly spiced and the mushrooms were crunchier. A lovely dish.

Fried mushrooms with caramelized onions

We also had creamy bulgur wheat with wild mushrooms & truffle oil and a cheese cake to top it all. At the end of the meal, I felt that buying the Lonely Planet and believing in its recommendation was totally worth it.

Lunch with The Queen of Tapas

I first came to know about Shawn (@sevillatapas) on Kalyan’s blog . I checked her blog and loved the amazing details she had shared on the Tapas bars of Seville. So I contacted her on Twitter and we decided to meetup for Lunch at La Azotea.

Shawn is from Canada but has made Seville her home. She conducts food walks for tourists and is also an English teacher. After hardly 10 minutes of meeting her, I could recognize her unconditional love for tapas and the city of Seville, all this along with a warm and friendly smile.

La Azotea was our first closed door meal after sometime, as we had mostly enjoyed our meals sitting outside (with sprinklers providing relief in the really hot summer). Although on a hot afternoon, sitting in A/C was much relaxing. Given I was travelling with two vegetarians, it was finally good to have Shawn for company. And the first dish we ordered was Tuna.

Two large fillets of Tuna (we ordered Ración- double the tapas serving) were neatly cooked with soy sauce and plated with a refreshing salad.

Tuna at La Azotea

Both my friends ordered couple of huge servings of vegetarian dishes which I didn’t bother tasting, but they looked really good.

Veggie platter at La Azotea

Mix veggie tortilla sin jamon

And then came the desserts, out of which the Ginger and Orange Custard with mint ice cream was one of the best ones we had during our trip.

Ginger and Orange Custard with mint ice cream

A blast of chocolate at La Azotea

La Azotea was a good experience but talking to Shawn was even better. She gave us an insight into the eating habits of locals and tourists, her preferences of the best tapas bars, and finally a set of recommendations on where to go next.

And the best place of them all

Our visit to Catalina was accidental. We had planned to visit the Vineria San Telmo and when we reached there in afternoon, it was closed. But Catalina next door was open. We sat and as usual first ordered our three glasses of beer.

Couple of glasses refreshing Estrella

At the bar was a young lady, with noticeable spectacles, tightly pulled back hair, and a firm demeanour. She walked us through the menu and we ordered quite a few gems.

The Aubergine, Cheese, Paprika special; Rice with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Oil; and Crema Catalina

Our first meal here comprised of the Aubergine, Cheese, Paprika special; Rice with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Oil, and Crema Catalina. The first one was something which we got used to during our stay at Seville, but this aubergine was better cooked and suited my taste. Rice with wild mushrooms had a risotto like texture and was my favourite rice dish on the trip (beating the most famous rice dish in Spain- Paella by quite some distance). Crema Catalina tasted brilliant in its simplicity and later influenced me to pick up a liquor with the same flavours.

Our second meal at Catalina consisted of quite a few of Mojitos. Of what I remember later was the taste of nice Chorizo sausage. And yes we tried their version on the tower dish (aubergine, goat cheese, veggie combo), again different from two earlier preparations, with a strong sweet sour taste.

Second meal at Catalina, their take on the tower dish, Chorizo, and few Mojitos

By the way I also tried Gazpacho at Seville for the first time. I had never tried it earlier so I ordered some fried squids as backup. After the first few sips I started paying more attention to the squids. This cold soup didn’t cut any ice with me.

Of all the places I visited in Spain, Seville was the place I loved the most, and I will always recall Seville as a place where we had our first good meals in Spain.

October 19, 2013
How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Pig, or did I?

I have learned over the years that when I make up my mind on something, it is very difficult to change it. It is extremely tough for me to displace deep rooted perceptions, especially when it comes to things I am enthusiastic about, such as politics, people, cricket, and food. But I know it is not impossible.

Consider bananas. As a kid I detested them. I remember having them once, and then getting into the vicious circle of vomiting everytime I consumed bananas. The fear of bananas would dominate the rest of my childhood and teenage years, with me skipping the coconut oil smelling wafers from Kerala, or the refreshing banana milk shakes made at home.

A couple of years back during my post-jaundice recovery cycles, I came across banana again. Used to spending significant time outside home over weekends, I faced the challenge of not eating anything outside home. Fruits in this case turned out to be my savior. Bored of apple, papaya, and pomegranate, and frustrated at the prospect of not eating mangoes for a complete season, I met banana again. But this time our encounter was pleasantly different. The mushiness of the fruit, its sweet starchiness reminiscent of a gooey aloo sheera (sweet prepared from mashed potatoes), and its distinct smell oozed flavors rather than the earlier nausea-inducing fumes.

I had embraced bananas.

And I realized that it is not that difficult to change your mind.

Consider brinjals or eggplants. I absolutely hated brinjals. Be it in curried form, roasted and mashed form (bharta), or the fried form (baigun bhaja). I didn’t know many kids around who loved it either. I would pick on the potatoes in the preparation and completely neglect the bhaja served with the durga pujo bhog.

But then a few years back on my visit to Anandvan (Baba Amte’s ashram near Chandrapaur), I was served a brownish-red curry of potatoes and brinjal. There was strong whiff of chilly in the air and one could have simply guessed the burning aftertaste of the dish. My love for chilies made me accept brinjals that day, and the relationship blossomed with plates of dohi-baigun, baigun bhaja, aloo-baingan, bharwa baingan, bharta, and baba ghanoush being consumed over the coming years. And yes I loved its flavors combining with a tangy, slightly ripened goat cheese on my recent trip to Spain.

I accepted brinjals too.

But can I ever accept pigs? I don’t think so.

With eggs, ham is decent

As kids I always thought of pigs as the epitome of uncleanliness. There huge families walked in a neat file, often in not so neat surroundings. The grunts were unbearable, and so was there mere presence in the surrounding. I remember playing cricket during my summer vacations at either Jabalpur or Devas, some of our best shots hitting the pigs, resulting in weird noises and bonus runs. But the person who had hit the ball was always supposed to bring it back. Sometimes intelligent mammals (as told to us in Biology classes), sometimes cute (in movies such as Babe), and occasionally susceptible to human-like behavior (In the Orwellian world of Animal Farm), pigs were still nothing more than dirty creatures to me.

I always thought, for a moment I can probably leave aside my religious belief and eat beef, but I will never ever eat pig’s meat.

But I was wrong, at least for sometime.

I first tried bacon with eggs. The saltiness didn’t work for me. I tried some sausages. They were tasty, but still I couldn’t get the thought of pigs out of my head. I was hesitant in trying pork chops, goan sausages, and other piggy delicacies, as it was very difficult to get rid of those images of pigs rolling in filth.

Buying Chorizo at Barcelona

On my trip to Spain I came across Jamón- dry cured ham from Spain. Given it is one of Spain’s most famous food items, I had to give it shot. I tried everything, from the regular cured ham coming from white pigs (serrano) to the acorn fed ibérico. Nothing ever worked. Be it with crackers, montaditos (Spanish mini sandwiches), or with eggs, it was a difficult barrier for me to overcome. The waxy shiny surface of Jamón strips, bubbling with droplets of fat were inviting, but then a bite through its chewy structure was always followed by a certain set of images. Although there were moments of affection spent in the company of chorizo sausages, I still didn’t feel any pleasure in eating pigs.

So will I ever embrace it? Might give it another chance. But will I learn to stop worrying? Never.

September 14, 2013
Simple Cooking: How To Make Poha?

I often come across people who hate cooking. I believe that cooking is a life skill, something as important as cleaning your wardrobes every week, maintaining personal hygiene, and ability to keep your home neat and clean. One of my life’s mission is to ensure that people overcome the mental barriers they have with respect to cooking, and start preparing some simple dishes.

This post is meant for all those people who never think twice before ordering a pizza on a day maid doesn’t arrive, or worst still boil a Maggi to break their hunger (I am a firm believer in having Maggi, only when I feel like having Maggi, not because of the lack of options).

Ok enough of lecturing, sharing a short and simple recipe of how to get your Poha (Flattened Rice) right, one of the easiest things one can start with. And yes, will start posting recipes of some simple dishes soon.

Step 1: Buying the right Poha

This is the most important step for getting your Poha right, don’t buy the very thick one (popular in Maharashtrian Poha, fried chiwda, or Avlakki Bhath in Karnataka), or the very thin one (used for making chiwda in Maharashtra). Buy something in between, but more towards the thinner side. Touch, feel and compare poha while buying, might help in judging the thickness.

Buying the right Poha is important, check the thickness.

Step 2: Soaking Poha

If buying the right Poha is 50% of the job, soaking it right makes your task 95% complete. In the picture I use a large strainer to soak it. Wash it nicely under running water, and drain out excess water. Another way is you wash it in a vessel, drain the water, and then place it over a clean cotton cloth (to help soak out excess moisture). Remember to drain out the excess moisture, otherwise you will get a mashy consistency.

Add some Red Chilli and Turmeric powder, some salt, and a pinch of sugar and keep it on the sides.

You can add the spices while soaking, or while cooking, but do remember to add a pinch of Sugar.

Step 3: Preparing Poha

Chop a large onion and some green chillies. You can add potatoes too but that will increase the cooking time. I anyway like my Poha to be Potato-Free. Keep some onion for garnish later.

I love adding peanuts to my Poha. The problem with peanuts is that if you add it in the normal cooking process, they tend to either under or overcook, which kills the fun while eating. I start with putting some oil in a pan and first frying the peanuts in it. Ensure that take out the peanuts at the right time (deep reddish brown in color). Add those peanuts to the same plate/strainer with soaked poha in it (to ensure that oil is not wasted).

Make sure you pull out your peanuts at the right time.

Now add some jeera (cumin seeds) to oil and let it crack. Add onion and chillies and fry it for sometime on on low flame. Add a bit of salt as it helps release moisture out of onion and will facilitate its cooking. Lesser the oil, more the time and stirring required. But salt does help in quickening the process.

Add a pinch of salt to ensure that onion cooks quickly

Once the onions change their colour, add the soaked poha and peanuts and mix it nicely. Use soft hands (as Dravid) to ensure minimal damage to the consistency of poha. More power you use, more the damage to the poha, and more the risk of it losing its shape and consistency.

Mix the poha with soft hands

Add some chopped coriander leaves, squeeze a bit of lemon juice, sprinkle a few drops of water, mix, and then cover it for 2 mins or so.

Step 4: Serving Poha

Once its done serve it with Sev (I use an Indori Double Laung, which is a thick spicy sev with lots of clove in it) and chopped onions. I also sprinkle a bit of Jeeravan (a much spicier version of chaat masala minus the sourness) over it.

Serve with sev and some chopped onions

Enjoy Poha, goes well with Jalebi and a hot cup of chai.

If you want to know more about Poha, Indore, and the things which make it so special read A Day in the life of Indori Jalebi.

Featured image from Google Images, other inline images from the cooking process in my kitchen.

July 28, 2013
The Curious Case of Carter Road

Over the past year or so nothing as intrigued me more than the appearance, sudden rise, and equally sudden demise of certain eateries in Mumbai. Places like the western suburbs of Bandra and Andheri have seen a sudden surge in the number of places opening up, with one of the key growth segments being that of stores specializing in desserts and confectioneries. As Antonie Lewis points out in his brilliant piece Mumbai’s extreme restaurants which appeared in HT Brunch few days back,

The sweetest section of the city
It’s 400050 or Bandra West.Burrp.com lists 86 eateries that either specialise in desserts, confectioneries, cakes or devote a substantial part of their menu to sweet affairs. From mithai to muffins, cookies to cupcakes, Bandra’s got most places to take care of your sugar fix.

I am assuming atleast of these 86 would have appeared in the year or two. Among these the most prominent category which is attracting equal attention of entrepreneurs, consumers, an investors alike is that of Frozen Yoghurt. According to Burrp there 9 exclusive Frozen Yoghurt shops in Bandra (with others such as Ci Gusta, Quiznos Sub, and Cuppa Joe also serving Frozen Yoghurt)*.

To be honest, I am not a big fan of the category. This frozen dessert with a pleasantly sharper flavour than ice-cream is usually served in berry or fruity flavors. The tart in the dessert is complimented with toppings ranging from crunchy nuts to fresh and canned fruits. It is obviously a healthier option than ice-cream with its lower fat content, but I am still to acquire a taste for it.

Personally I have been a big fan of yoghurt since my childhood. While as a kid the thick Kesar-infused Shrikhand or the aamrakhand (Mango Pulp mixed with Hung Yoghurt) captured my taste buds, I discovered the slightly softer matho with a variety of flavors and toppings in Gujarat. I have had the best matho at Surat but as one of my friend insists, nothing beats Rajkot in matho. One of my favorite flavors of matho back in Gujarat is the American Dry Fruit- a unique mix of chocolate chips, nuts and jelly whisked with a hung yoghurt (I feel matho has a slightly thinner consistency than Shrikhand, which means it has a relatively higher water content).

And then there is Mishti Doi, malaidar curd which is at its best when sweetened using Date Jaggary, a product popular from those earthen kulhads in Durga Pujas to Mother Dairy plastic cups on the Delhi University campus.

To understand the difference between these two distinct usages of yoghurt (eastern and western) one needs to understand the differences in culinary cultures. We as Indians (and lot of parts of Asia including the middle east) have been consuming yoghurt for a long time. But for the western world, Yoghurt was an alien concept. People hardly appreciated its sour flavors and it was difficult to get it. It first gained popularity during the hippie movement as simpler food habits were being encouraged as part of their communes. Later on some genius added sugar and fruits to the sour yoghurt and started marketing what we call “Flavored Yoghurt”. They sold it on promise of health and taste. With the growing consciousness towards healthier foods and emergence of functional foods, brands like Yakult and Danone became household names, and LactoBacillus, a bacteria which makes yoghurt what it is, was embraced for its perceived health benefits by millions around the world.

You can watch a detailed documentary on the emergence of this category (presented from the perspective of UK markets) and others here:

Documentary on the emergence of Yoghurt

I haven’t got to read and watch much about Frozen Yoghurt’s origins, but the Wikipedia entry traces it to New England region in North East U.S.A.

Frozen yogurt was introduced in New England, north-east USA, in the 1970s as a soft serve dessert by H. P. Hood under the name Frogurt

So while the western world had to go through a series of manufacturing and marketing innovations to make yoghurt mainstream, we have always had it as part of our natural diet. And hence the opening of Frozen Yoghurt shops (and the stocking of Flavored Yoghurts pods in supermarkets) is slightly confusing.

Are companies trying to sell us a fancy concept, a new experience, a differentiated dessert or a functional food item?

I have been looking for answers myself. So when earlier this year I was at B-School in Mumbai helping a batch of students with their placement preparation, I thought of throwing the question to them. Here is a summary of the case study, with a structure to approach the problem, and few ideas from my end:

The Curious Case of Carter Road from Abhishek Deshpande

I don’t know if I have been able to solve the problem or make it simpler. All I know is that I will always prefer an American Dry Fruit Matho or a Kesar Shrikhand or a Mishti Doi over frozen yoghurt.

So FroYo makers, do you have anything better to offer?

*Specific input from Anuja Deora

April 28, 2013
A Butter Bath at Sardar
All of us imagine and keep designing some colourful imaginations once in a while. People imagine future scenarios, their possible adventures on travel, or a date with Katrina or John Abraham. But for some people like me, imaginations can be as simple and weird as taking a bath in my favourite dish. Be it drowning in the Sambhar at Chutneys (Hyderabad) or diving into the Vindaloo gravies at Goa, I have always thought about extremes with food.

I have also ventured into surreal territories of taking a hot rasam bath or a cold Rabdi snaan. Most of these thoughts were triggered by the nomenclature of Bangalore Idli Joints (those famous Darshinis and Sagars), which had dishes like Kesari Bath, Kara Bath and a Chinese sounding Chow Chow Bath (a mix of Kesari-Kara).

In a realistic scenario taking a bath in these delicacies doesn’t actually mean me jumping into them, but rather the overall experience of their flavours dominating me and all my senses.

Out of all these weird imaginary baths, none is as rich, as good for taste, and as bad for heart like the Butter Bath at Sardar.

Sardar Paved Bhaji located at Tardeo is not just another Pav Bhaji place. It is a temple, a shrine for all Amul butter pilgrims. If Butter was a religion, and Amul Butter its religious head, its janmbhumi would be at Anand, but its karmbhumi will surely be Sardar.

My visits to Sardar have almost always been with Prateek (fellow DAIICTian and SPite, and co-inventor of the now famous DK index). Almost all our visits to this place begin with questions like:
1. How much Amul Butter does Sardar use in one day? (Our guesstimates based on number of tables, rotations, and approximate number of parcels have led us to a figure of anywhere between 168-190 KG. Although we later realized that we grossly underestimated the parcel count)
2. Is this Amul’s frontline store which is being used to promote its brand, or is it just another Pav Bhaji place?
3. Do they have a tightly integrated supply chain with a Butter factory and a Dairy to replenish their Butter supplies?
4. Do Sallu Bhai and Sanju Baba actually get Pav bhaji specially parcelled for them?
5. One can eat one pav bhaji, but is there any possibility that he or she can get through another? (Believe it or not, Prateek has got through two)
I got to know a lot about the history of Sardar and Tardeo through some interesting conversations with the taxi drivers in and around Mumbai Central. The staff at Sardar seldom reveals much, but the Taxi Drivers narrate stories of the days when Tardeo was the go to place for movie lovers in Mumbai with a number theatres (few of them like Maratha Mandir playing DDLJ and Ganga Jamuna still survive). People used to watch a movie and come straight for a Pav Bhaji at Sardar. I met Taxi Drivers who have had it for Rs. 12, Rs. 25, and Rs. 30. A movie at Maratha Mandir for Rs. 15 followed by a Pav Bhaji for Rs. 15, those were the times!

Although the rates have now changed significantly (touching Rs. 100), what remains constant is the Butter Bath given to every Pav Bhaji. Every lot of Bhaji is meticulously prepared from scratch and serves around 70-100 plates of Bhaji.

Here is a short clip on the final Butterification of Bhaaji, whereas the other Tawa is busy being prepared for Masala Pav.

Butterification of Sardar Pav Bhaji

Here are a few pictures of the Pav Bhaji creation process.

The Making of Sardar’s Bhaji

Pav Swimming in Butter

When it comes to the actual dish the Bhaji lacks the tanginess of the Bhaji my Aunt makes, the simplicity of Canon Pav Bhaaji (opposite CST station subway exit), the tasty garam masala induced spicing of a Bhaji in Delhi, or the pleasure of eating Pav Bhaji past midnight near any local station in Mumbai (especially Andheri). But it is still so special and unique.

The Great Sardar Bhaji

When it comes to Masala Pav, what they offer is simply the best. Although I have been recommended DP (at Matunga near Ruia) for the same, but this one beats all other competition in Mumbai.

Masala Pav

Also do try the Mango Shake at Sardar, pretty good.

Mango Shake

In between the weird imaginations and stark reality, whenever I think of Sardar the image of Pavs floating in Butter will keep coming back to my mind.

Butter Bath at Sardar

Long live Amul Butter and the happiness it spreads in life of many like me.
April 20, 2013
Episode II: What to eat in Varanasi or Story of Italian Food in Varanasi

Continued from Episode I: What to eat in Varanasi? where I touched upon a range of desi delicacies. In this part I will cover a bit of what I learned about what Varanasi learnt, from its foreign visitors. And yes, the title does remind me of the Stanley Kubrick classic, but I can safely assume that a city like Varanasi and its food will surely survive a doomsday scenario too.

Varanasi houses a number of European eateries, not only as a direct response to the influx of foreign tourists, but also due to blending of foreign nationals with the local population. A blending which has been facilitated through common interests, strong friendships, and in many cases, marriage with a Varanasi Local.

Amongst all western cuisines, Italian seems to be the most popular one. One can find a number of joints offering wood-oven fired pizza, or Spaghetti Bolognese, or Home Made Pesto. I was quite intrigued by this Italian invasion of Varanasi and had a series of conversations with locals around this. I will share the one I found most convincing, narrated over a cup of Hot Chocolate and crumbly Apple Pie by Mr. Anil Singh, caretaker of the Vaatika Cafe (at Assi Ghat).

Vaatika sits neatly at one corner of the string of ghats, beneath a shade at the entry of Assi, with a green refreshing interior and peaceful surroundings. This place was started by Mr. Gopal Shukla, around 20 years back. Back then while Mr. Shukla was learning tabla, he met Gerrad, an Italian who was in Varanasi for learning Indian Classical Music. The two struck a friendship which continues strongly till date. Gerrad belonged to a family of Pizzamakers in Italy. The two thought that given the number of Italians (and Europeans) visiting Varanasi, a Pizza place could be a profitable proposition. And in 1992 Vaatika started serving its delicious pizzas, at Assi Ghaat.

Vaatika Cafe

Anil Singh Ji recalls the early days of the place, where the seating capacity was limited, but it didn’t deter Pizza fans to visit the place. Most of the customers were foreign tourists, dough was rolled in a limited quantity, toppings were few to choose from, and options were limited on the menu. Along with the secrets of Pizza Making, what Gerrard also shared were the procedures of producing Mozzarella from Buffalo milk, and the importance of growing fresh herbs and veggies. Slowly and steadily the menu evolved, and other favorites like Pasta and their famous Apple Pie were added to the menu. Also the place learned from the incoming tourists, and incorporated items, dishes like Raviolli were taught to the owners by an Italian visitor.

The place also started drawing interest of locals, who had never tasted Pizzas in the pre-Pizza Hut/Dominos era. Amit Singh Ji fondly recalls the days when Pizzas started becoming mainstream in in India when few of their Indian customers, who were so used to Vaatika’s crispy thin crusts and sumptuous toppings, that they totally rejected the thick chewy doughs at Dominos.

I got a chance to sample some Pesto infused Spaghetti, Apple Pie, and some good Coffee. I missed out on eating the Pizza as I was already quite stuffed. I also avoided the temptation of ordering a Huma Qureshi Pasta (Gangs of Wasseypur unit spent a considerable time at this cafe while shooting). But I could totally imagine the tastes of this place, oozing with taste and freshness, of ingredients, and of friendship.

Nice crumbly Apple Pie at Vaatika

Huma Qureshi Pasta at Vaatika

Other prominent cafes and bakeries include the Brown Bread Bakery (run by a German baker James, some amazing stuff), Bread of Life and Open Hand Cafe.

Open Hand Cafe* offers another inspiring story. It was established in 1999 by a traveler Christian, who after marrying a local Varanasi lady, started a non profit helping local artisans. He established Open Hand as a shop to sell their goods, and the cafe followed. They have branches across Leh, Delhi, Goa and Kochi now and their sales have benefited a large number of artisans. The place serves some great variety on the menu, and is surely a place filled with inspirational stories and some good coffee.

To end the post on Varanasi, I felt I have missed out on one critical piece of the Varanasi culinary journey, the Paan. Paan and its colorful outcomes are present throughout the city, and I ended up tasting about 6-7 different varieties. I think with so much of it around, there was nothing great to like about them, but I liked this one at Dashashwamedh, after a tiring walk across the ghaats on a hot afternoon.

Banarasi Paan

Drop me a line in case you are travelling to Varanasi sometime soon, will be happy to throw some interesting ideas especially those related to food.

*Open hand story was narrated to me not by the owners but by their staff, and other cafe owners, might not be factually correct in all aspects.

April 11, 2013
Am I at Sea?

I often come across as a slightly lost and confused kind of a person. Be it my extreme hyperactivity levels, or slightly irritating ability to connect random things, they tend to add to an aura of confusion around me. I try to be a WYSWYG (What You See is What You Get), with hardly a difference between what I show to the world, and what I am. But do I succeed?

Deep down I remain an extremely confused person. I am unsure about my life, career, settling down, choosing between poha and eggs for breakfast, or even about what my interests are.

Although beneath the multiple layers of confusion, both externally and internally, I always stay true to one thing- people around me. I learn things through them, see the world through their eyes, and interpret their tastes to venture into untested culinary territories. I believe my intelligence stems from the people I know, and it will keep growing as I keep connecting and sharing with more number of people.

But as the number of people I know keeps consolidating into smaller and smaller groups, I am totally at sea with respect to which ones to manage my relationships with. Manage lesser number of people and shrink this unique intelligence network of mine? Or, Keep growing it for an indefinite period and attain Moksha?

Confusion follows me everywhere, or rather I take it along with me. It is topmost on the list of things I carry, higher than my phone too. So when I was in Goa last weekend it chased me, and I guess it infected my friends too.

On a hot Saturday noon, we left our resort looking for something interesting to do in Goa. Goa always has options, but my mind was muddled trying to balance my quest for finding a new Goa and my friend’s zeal to discover the Goa I already knew.

We decided to venture out to this French Beachside place called La Plage (The Sea in French), at the Ashwem Beach. The ride was long and the sun was strong, but my Kokam Juice-powered body was turning the hot winds into a fearless cold sweat. The ghost of confusion was off my back, and I was calmly enjoying the ride. And then we arrived at La Plage.

Sitting neatly in one corner of the beautiful Ashwem Beach, La Plage is a French Cuisine hotspot run by a French lady. Once we entered the place, I could feel a difference in atmosphere. The decor was crisp, spacious, and well-organized. The tables were marked, and the owner took reservations. No wonder Haute Cuisine and its related culture had its origins in France, they can make even a Beach Side Shack run in an elegant manner.

I had a brief conversation with the owner. She was a charming lady, probably in her mid-50s. She had beautiful silver hair, a wrinkled yet shiny skin, and a demeanour which was friendly yet authoritative. I sensed perfection, something which had translated into this place, and into its food. She allotted us the table we wanted, having comfortable resting chairs, the kind of which my GrandPa used to have.

We ordered a Sula Zinfandel Rosé, served perfectly chilled tucked in an ice-bucket. A Rosé evokes fascinating memories of me drooling over Roohafza as a kid, but as the present sinks in, I am channelled back into a more alcoholic mode of refreshing luminescence.

Nothing freshens things up as a Rosé

I picked up the menu, and there was finesse sprayed all over it. The dishes were deliciously described, helping me imagine the culinary outcomes of my order. We ended up ordering Fried Sardines with a Red Pepper Sorbet and a Tomato Crumble.

I sat back and started sipping the wine back, the conversations were flowing, but I was a bit lost in myself. Probably it was the wine, or it was the heat. Or just me.

The dishes arrived, breaking my imaginary (order->culinary outcomes) equation with ease. The plates were just like everything else at the place, nothing short of perfection. The plating was so gorgeous that it would have been a sin even touching the dish, leave aside eating it. But then I took the fork, captured the dish, and poked in.

Sardines were a bit too Fishy and bland for my liking. For someone who prefers dipping in Goan Masala rather than the Sea, it was like eating a tasteless porridge. Probably that’s the way the French make it. But then I discovered the Red Pepper Sorbet.

Crispy Sardines with Red Pepper Sorbet

Served as a dip for the Sardines, Red Pepper Sorbet took me through a dreamy journey of the La Plage kitchen. I saw someone roasting the Red Peppers on open fire inducing a lovely burnt taste. I saw someone blending it, adding Sugar, dash of alcohol and some lime juice to the mix.I looked around for some Ginger in the kitchen. Probably that could have taken it to another level. Probably not.

The fish dipped in sorbet was another being now. It had a new life, and its renewed life had a new meaning.

Tomato Crumble looked as a something ready to breakdown, but still so firmly bound. A layer of juicy tomatoes and a crust induced with three secrets of French cuisine (Butter, Butter, and Butter) was mixed with crunchy walnuts and separated by a sheet of melted mozzarella. The side was a simplified Caesar Salad with a thickish, and quite evident vinaigrette.

Tomato Crumble with Caeser Salad

I cut through a sizeable cross-section of the dish to taste. What followed were the slightly sugary notes of tomatoes along with the crunch of walnuts. A thought that Mozzarella and Tomato would have been married to each other in their previous lives crossed my mind. The dish was totally different from the Sardines Sorbet combination, as the results were much more on expected lines. But both the dishes had minimal spicing, and relied on the purity of the ingredients involved.

We took a break from eating and walked towards the beach. The sun was at its peak but there was a something more pleasant about the atmosphere here. I took a dip and came back to our table. I took a few sips and then closed my eyes.

I re-entered the kitchen looking for the refrigeration unit. I opened it up and tried to look for the Red Pepper Sorbet but couldn’t find any. I opened my eyes. My friends were back. And we ordered some Sorbets and Vanilla Ice Cream.

The Pure flavours of Vanilla and Fruits

It was simply the best Vanilla Ice Cream I had ever consumed, as it relied more on the purity of the vanilla beans involved rather than anything else. It is a pity that the brilliance of Vanilla has been reduced to a default flavour by commercial ice cream makers. The term Plain Vanilla is both misleading and disrespectful to the delight Vanilla can be.

The sorbets were an experience, involving a series of tangy strawberry, floral litchi, elegant guava and regal flavours of mango.

Post the meal I sat with my eyes closed. The wind was blowing smoothly and my feet were tucked in finely powdered cold sand. I had found the new experience I am always on the lookout for in Goa. A sense of eerie calm had replaced the ghost of confusion which always rides on my back. This is what a great culinary experience can do to you.

I was still at sea, but more sure about my being than ever.

April 6, 2013
La Tagliatella | A Bloggers’ Table in Delhi

The moment I landed in Delhi last month, I messaged couple of my friends stating that I felt a certain disconnect with this city. Yes there are things that I love about Delhi, but then Mumbai is Mumbai. Of all the places I have stayed or experienced, Delhi is the place with the least number of exciting stories. Yes there have been adventures, but they are a bit down on the podium of my wonderland. Probably it is the feel of the place, or the people, or just me.

On this visit though, I got a chance to attend a food event in Delhi. I have been through lots of them in Mumbai with varying experiences, but one thing has been common, I have always loved the people I meet at such events. Food is secondary, it is always the people which make my evening.

Thanks to Anaggh, I received an invite for the event at La Tagliatella (at Ambience Mall, Vasant Kunj). It is an European food chain specializing in Italian cuisine which has recently set shop at Delhi (soon to be followed by one in Bangalore).

I was accompanied by my sister who took these wonderful shots of the food we were served.

We were welcomed by Snehal Kulsheshtra from Amrest (the holding company for La Tag) and Simone (the warm, friendly restaurant manager). The place had two levels with the lower level representing an open-bistro format (not necessarily the best one to have in a Huge Delhi Mall). The décor was neat and Simone and Snehal were both extremely informed and friendly.

In some moments Anaggh appeared and so did few other Delhi bloggers. The chatter topics in the evening ranged from chuna-infused beer drinking tales to Delhi wedding catering, from filthy politics to Italian food.

It was great to meet a high-on-energy Dushyant with his family (my go to person for legal affairs now) and a dripped in Mumbai nostalgia TK (who shares his surname with the ever so weirdly named Ritika Mahalingam). Also met a few others from the Delhi food blogging scene (which I felt is still in a nascent stage as compared to the much more mature Mumbai one).

We started with a few glasses of Fratelli Red accompanied with some extremely yummy Focaccia. Focaccia was freshly baked and the ones with tomatoes (and a hint of basil) on it was worth multiple encounters. Tomatoes were really juicy and had a refreshingly unique taste. More on tomatoes later.

Caesar Salad was served next and although it looked great with hefty shaves on parmesan on top, I didn’t like the Mustard and anchovies vinaigrette dressing a lot. Nothing against this one but I prefer mine at Out of the Blue in Mumbai, fresh with cherry tomatoes and a cream cheese dressing.

Insalata Caesar Salad with Mustard and anchovies vinaigrette

After the salad (and a few more glasses of wine) we were ready for a round of pastas. Given the name of the place (Tagliatella means Pasta) we had high hopes, and yes, a high appetite.

The clear winner for me was Pappardelle Pepe Noro with Gamberi (Peppery Pasta with Prawns). The pasta was freshly prepared with mesmerizing tones of roughly ground pepper passing through it. Prawns were perfectly cooked and they blended really well with the peppery tones. I ended up cleaning half of the servings of this.

Pappardelle Pepe Noro with Gamberi

Another winning flavor from the evening was that of Cuore di Zucca (means Pumpkin’s Heart in Italian). The sweet pumpkin mash delightfully mingled with fresh pasta, the texture was creamy and just perfect for the flavours surrounding it. A must try for Vegetarians.

Cuore di Zucca

There were two other pastas served, Tagliatelle Carbonara (Creamy Pasta with Turkey) and Ravioli Verdi. The former was a bit too creamy and low on spice for my liking and second one didn’t leave behind any special memories too.

Tagliatelle Carbonara | Ravioli Verdi
Post this we were served the Pizzas, all of them freshly prepared with a lovely thin crust and an ensemble of multi-colored veggies, meats, and cheese on top. After spending sometime chasing artichokes on one of them, I tasted the Pizza Verdure Grilgliate (Delicious Tomatoes, Onions, Capsicum and Caramelized Apples). And the tomatoes again were simply brilliant.

Ensemble Pizza | Pizza Verdure Grilgliate
Tomatoes at this place were special, juicy, a bit sugary, and evoked the freshness of a misty winter morning, or a dew-laden green lawn. They reminded me more of a citrus fruit than the typical tomato we at home. Snehal then talked to us about the tomatoes, which were imported from Europe. I wondered, can’t they be grown here? Whatever I stuffed a few more of them into my mouth.

Then the desserts followed. the Lemon Sorbet was a bit too purist for Indian Palates (as in low on sugar), Fondue wasn’t memorable, Tiramisu was good, and the cheese cake was different. To my surprise, it was in a semi-solid state, the flavours were right, but I guess my mind expected something different.

Tiramisu and Cheese Cake

So apart from my conversations and few new friends from Twitter, I took back the peppery tones of pasta, the simple wonders of pumpkin, and the uniqueness of tomatoes.

And by the end of the evening was I able to spell out the name of the restaurant properly? I don’t think so.

And did my love for Delhi grow? I don’t think so.

You can check all the photos from event here. They were clicked by Shruti Deshpande.

Disclosure: Restaurant’s Public Relations agency covered all the expenses associated with the food tastings mentioned above. For more details refer my disclosure page.

April 6, 2013